Northern Mexican fare right here in Reno

Marnie McArthur, reno.com
January 7, 2008

The stone front façade of a small 80-year-old house on Mill Street conceals one of the oldest and most authentic Mexican restaurants in Reno. The warm hacienda atmosphere, Bertha’s original recipes, and very reasonable prices make dining here a pleasure. Bertha Miranda’s is the closest thing to northern Mexico in northern Nevada. A family-owned business for more than 20 years, it’s the place to go in Reno for a genuine Mexican meal – brunch, lunch or dinner.

Setting the scene
From street side, Bertha Miranda’s looks deceptively small and what appears to be the main entrance, isn’t at all. An unassuming side door from the parking lot opens into split-level, high-ceiling rooms with Mexican tile floors, cowhide barrel chairs, and a magnificent stone wall embedded with bricks. Look closely and you’ll find the form of an eagle.

Through a stone arch to the left, an attractive bar/cantina, with a wonderful curved ceiling made from thin wood planks, hosts live salsa, meringue and jazz on Friday and Saturday nights.

The players
On a recent winter night, two friends and I had a wonderful meal and enjoyed conversing in Spanish with the attentive server. My friends, who hadn’t been in the restaurant for 15 years, were glad to be reminded how good it is. On my first visit, I definitely agreed.

For starters
We started with a large pitcher of margaritas on the rocks ($19), more than enough for two tall glasses each that lasted throughout the meal. Good margaritas are an art, and these were excellent. A homemade blended salsa was nicely spicy. Crisp chips were a bit greasy but fresh and good and kept our taste buds busy as we read the extensive bilingual menu. The menu also a special section for kids and seniors with all items priced at $7.95.

The server gladly divided one order of Albondigas, traditional meat ball soup ($7.95), into three small bowls so each of us could have a taste. The spicy tomato-based broth was well-flavored and the meatballs large and tender. Rice was served on a separate plate so we could add as much as we liked – a nice touch.

Entrée
• Chile verde verdict
Each of us chose an entrée and we shared a bowl of chile verde ($10.95), a group favorite. This dish was moderately spicy with chunks of pork, mild green chilies and onions all cooked long and slow to blend the flavors and soften the meat to melt-in-the mouth tenderness.

• The best carnitas ever
One of my friends who lives for good Mexican food and has eaten enough on both sides of the boarder to know it, pronounced the Carnitas ($11.95) “the best I’ve ever tasted!” The spicy bite-size pork pieces were braised to succulent softness then roasted to a delicate crispness. This delicious dish was served with salsa and guacamole, the perfect combination.

• Chicken mole mélange
Chicken mole ($12.95) was also tasty, although light on the traditional chocolate flavor. Chunks of chicken in this stew-like presentation were very tender and the flavors in the subtle sauce were well-integrated.


• Chiles rellenos' mild sauce misses mark
In my eternal quest for the perfect chiles rellenos, I chose Bertha’s Favorite, a duo of chile relleno and tamale ($11.95). This chile relleno came close but missed with the sauce. The chile was tender and fresh with just the right amount of mild, flavorful cheese, and a light egg batter coating, not greasy at all.

• Bravo tamales
I could only have wished for a spicier, chunky salsa in place of the mild, smooth enchilada sauce that didn’t have much flavor. The tamale was perfect and very easy to eat. Often with tamales you must fight through a husk to scrape out the cornmeal and ground meat filling. Here the work is done for you. The tamale arrives as a lovely moist cornmeal casing surrounding a spicy meat filling.

• Beans and rice could use some spice
All of us opted for whole beans with the entrées in place of refried. Tender pinto beans were served in small bowls on each plate. The traditional Mexican rice was rather bland and would have benefited from a spicy salsa. You can request a side of salsa, which is a good idea if you like more kick.

Details
Bertha Miranda’s is located at 336 Mill Street between Wells and So. Virginia. The restaurant is open seven days a week from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Brunch is served from 10 a.m. to noon Monday through Friday and all day Saturday and Sunday.

Other menu items available at all times. High ceilings and two levels, plus an outdoor patio in summer, make the restaurant seem spacious, but there is limited seating and reservations are suggested. Call (775) 786-9697 and view the complete menu at www.berthamirandas.com.